Tahoe hiking 2008

These past two weeks I haven't done any climbing, but I've taken the opportunity to get out and go on some hikes. Last weekend Holly, Chester, and I hiked the Shirley Canyon trail outside of Squaw Valley. The trail was beautiful and ended at a small lake where I decided to go for a swim. This trail had some of the larger expanses of granite slabs that I've encountered on a Tahoe-area hiking trail. We decided that it is going to be a must-see in the spring when the creek is running.

This past week I decided to to a good training hike to try to get myself in back in shape (an ever-constant, but seemingly non-attainable goal). I decided to hike Freel Peak, which at 10,881 feet is the tallest peak in the Tahoe Basin. At the same time I wanted to hike a good portion of the Tahoe Rim Trail so I decided to make a loop trip out of it. I started at Kingsbury Grade at Heavely Ski Area and hiked 9 miles with Chester to a beautiful alpine lake called Star Lake. From that point we continued on a couple of miles to the pass where the trail to Freel splits off. Freel Peak isn't a technical climb at all it is just a 1 mile hike off of the main trail, but 1 mile that gains 1,000 feet. Upon summiting I decided to head over to a nearby peak called Job's Sister from which I could travel cross-country to hook back into the trail at Star Lake. All in all, the hike turned out to be an enjoyable one. The views from the trail and from the summits consisted of Lake Tahoe as well as Carson Valley, which is nearly a vertical mile below the summit of Freel. The total distance was 23 miles with a 3,000 foot elevation gain and two summits. It felt good being out, and I enjoyed the scenery and company.

Trip to the coast: Point Reyes

This past Labor Day weekend Holly and I decided to go to Point Reyes National Seashore north of San Francisco. To those of you who live in the Bay Area this is probably nothing special, however, neither of us had been there before, and we both liked the idea of traveling to somewhere with cool weather and nice views. Fortunately for us most of the traffic on holiday weekends seems to go from the Bay Area up to Sierra, so it turns out that we don't have to deal with the horrible snarl of traffic that most people deal with. Point Reyes immediately appealed to both of us, because of its ocean location and the multitude of good culinary products that come out of the area: fine wine, good cheese, and great oysters. We stayed at a small B & B just outside of Point Reyes Station. Over the course of the weekend we were able to enjoy some fine views, go on a kayak trip, take some small hikes, and enjoy the good food. I think that this place is probably Holly's version of paradise. Needless to say we had a great time and intend to go back.

Alpine climbing in Tahoe

This past weekend Newton and I decided to do an alpine climb that wasn't so far from home. We returned to the Emerald Bay area at Tahoe to climb a route called Section 20 that is purported to be the longest rock route in the Tahoe Basin. We started the approach around 6:30 or 7 am as is tradition. This time around it was especially important to get an early start as the weather was calling for late afternoon thunderstorms. The route that we chose was called Section 20 in the Falcon Guidebook and ascends the face northwest of 90 foot wall. We knew that the challenge would be routefinding on this route, which proved to be true. In fact, we never really found the Section 20 route at all and instead followed our own route the entire way. I think that it totalled about 7 or 8 pitches, however in typical alpine fashion some of the pitches had to be cut short and others we could do a running belay. There was even a section near the top that we could unrope and hike about a quarter mile. The real challenge proved to be the rock quality, which was poor, especially in the middle of the route. However, despite getting off route and despite the poor rock quality we were able to put together a good climb without any hangups. We were cut a little short by storm clouds that were brewing over the lake, so upon reaching the summit ridge we decided to head down rather than to become lightning fodder. We also didn't have good information on the descent which proved to be extremely brushy. All in all the climb proved to be a good one. Hopefully I can get a photo or two from Newton to post on this blog.

Yosemite bound

The weekend following our Desolation Wilderness trip we took the opportunity to go somewhere that we've always wanted to go, Yosemite! Being a climber, naturally, I've always wanted to go to Yosemite. By any climber's standards it is an ueber-Mecca. Despite the multitude of rock this trip was to be, however, a trip to see the sites. Holly and I had three days, and with three days one can barely scratch the surface of a park as varied and beautiful as Yosemite. We stayed at Tuolumne Meadows campground, which is closest to the eastern entrance of the park near Tioga Pass. Despite staying at Tuolumne we spent most of our time down in the Valley. One thing about Yosemite is that probably every tourist who goes there has already seen countless images of the place. So you'd think that the seeing that many images would detract from the whole experience. On this note, I'd have to strongly disagree. Driving into Yosemite that first night was nothing short of amazing, and it is little wonder that people like Muir and Adams devoted their lives to documenting and saving this sacred place. The first evening we arrived just in time to see the sites of Yosemite Valley.

The second day we decided to go on a hike. We picked a trail that started at Olmsted Point just down from Tenaya Lake and descended down into the valley. We figured that this was sort of the ultimate trail where we could enjoy the best of both the high country and the valley. As it turned out the trail was absolutely spectacular with straight-on views of Half Dome. However, the moment it reached the edge of Yosemite Valley it dropped down 3,000 feet of switchbacks. We ended up underestimating the rigor of going downhill, which was especially hard on Holly's knees. Trying to hike as fast as we could we just barely missed the bus back to Tuolumne by 10 minutes. Now we were stranded and we needed to get back to our car and campsite. Our only option was to hitchhike so we caught the shuttle to Camp 4 and stuck our thumbs out. It took about half an hour before a car pulled over. Most surprisingly it turned out that that car was a taxi. In a near state of disbelief we walked over to the taxi expecting the taxi driver to charge $100 for the ride, but as it turned out two hikers on the John Muir Trail had bailed out early and had hired the taxi for the day to bring them back to their cars at Tuolumne. We enjoyed the ride back up to the car and gave the backpackers $20 to help cover our part of the trip. The final day we spent looking at the falls and swimming in the Merced River, before leaving the park in the midst if a major rainstorm.

Holly's first backpacking trip

I know that a blog is supposed to be chronological, but every once in a while I get out of sync. This posting goes all the way back to 4th of July weekend when Holly, Chester, and I went into the Desolation Wilderness. Most of you hard core wilderness types know that Desolation Wilderness is not desolate. In fact, it is probably the most crowded wilderness area in the Sierra., but it is also extremely beautiful. Given the crowds at Tahoe that weekend, we were happy to be in wilderness enjoying part of nature. This was also Holly's first backpacking trip, as well as Chester's. Holly got a new backpack that she was testing out, ans we got Chester dog panniers.

Our trip started off at the Bayview trailhead near Emerald Bay and led us up to the peaceful Lower Velma Lake. Holly did very well carrying a heavy pack, but unfortunately she ended up with blisters. The following day we did the short hike to Middle Velma Lake where we found a great camp spot alongside the lake. We took the day easy, went for a swim, and by the evening the smoke had almost already completely cleared. At this point in time northern California and northern Nevada were experiencing large wildfires that led to many hazy days during the months of June and July. The final day involved an extra loop that went up past Dicks Lake. This was probably the scenic highlight of the trip although it is difficult to compare one amazing vista to the next. We hiked back down to Eagle Lake where we went for a brief swim before returning to civilization.

Matterhorn Peak: First High Sierra Rock Climb

The Sierra Nevada has some of the finest alpine rock climbs around. Naturally, I've been dying to get out climb long routes, and finally I got my chance. This past weekend Newton Debardeleben and I set out to climb Matterhorn Peak, the high point of the Sawtooth Range located just outside of Bridgeport, California. The Sawtooths are steep jagged spine of mountains that extend along the Sierra crest and are considered by many to be the northernmost of the High Sierra.

We decided to make the trip in two days, which meant that we needed to set up a high camp the first day and then make the climb, hike back to camp, descend to the car, and drive back to Reno the second day. This was all quite doable, although it amounted to a good workout. On Saturday we arrived at US Forest Service Ranger Station in Bridgeport at 7:15 am just in time to snag the last permit for the Horse Creek unit. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and then headed up Horse Creek Trail from Twin Lakes. We arrived with plenty of time at an awesome campsite next to a small lake with beautiful views of the mountain and decided to scout the route. Hiking up 2,000 feet of scree proved to be slower than we expected, however, it gave us the opportunity to re-calibrate our expectations for the next day's demands.

At 4:30 am we woke, packed up quickly, and started the hike to the base of the peak. The route that we had our sights set on was the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak, which is the most prominent route as seen from Bridgeport or Twin Lakes area. At 7:00 am we got on the first pitch which consisted of mostly loose blocks of rock. The route totalled six pitches according to the guidebook, although the last two pitches we split into two to reduce rope drag and there was a third pitch of 3rd class scrambling along a knife-edge ridge. the weather proved to be cold, with a steady wind blowing, and most of the route being in the shade. The few sunny wind free spots felt like a godsend. The climbing proved to be enjoyable with no single move greater than 5.7. In classic alpine style there was some routefinding to be had and all but one pitch featured loose rock. At 1 pm we topped out and were greeted with gorgeous views of the northern part of Yosemite Park as well as extensive views into the Great Basin to the east.

Photos 1) View of the Sawtooth Range from east of Twin Lakes 2) Closeup view of Matterhorn Peak. The north arete is the prominent route in the foreground. 3) View of Matterhorn Peak from camp 4) Newton at the bottom of the third pitch 5) Sunrise on the Sawtooth Range

Keep on climbing

Despite my lack of posting on this blog this summer I actually have been climbing, although not nearly as often as I'd like to be. This summer I've made forays to the usual climbing spots: Lovers Leap, Donner Summit, Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, and River Rocks. However, I don't have any photos to post. The latter half of the summer I plan on focusing on long trad routes and alpine routes in the High Sierra, so hopefully I'll be back here with some good photos. the last two weekends I've been spending time with Holly. We did a great little backpacking trip in the Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe and spent the last weekend at Yosemite where we did a hike that led from near Tenaya Lake down into Yosemite Valley. Expect a couple of posts on those trips in the near future. I've also been busy doing fieldwork in the Walker River Basin of Nevada and California, usually going for 3 to 4 days at a time and returning home on the weekend. That doesn't give me much of an opportunity to climb during the week, however, I do get to see some great places when I go in the field.

Photo: Wassuk Range located just east of the terminus of the Walker River, Nevada.

R & R on the Coast

After spending a wonderful week with family between graduation and our wedding reception Holly and I decided to head out to the California and Oregon coasts on our honeymoon. We started our trip from Reno driving directly to Fort Bragg California. From there we worked our way north along the California coastline visiting redwoods and beaches and camping along the way. Chester got his first taste of the ocean while we got to try some of the North Coast breweries finest. Along the way we took our time to enjoy the sights the sounds and the smells of this wonderful country. At Crescent City we decided to head north toward the Oregon Caves National Monument. As we drove along we noticed a sign pointing toward local vineyards and decided to check it out. When we went in we were surprised that the owners happened to be a good friend of Holly's dad, Terry Benndock, who had retired from Fish & Game and had moved to Oregon to open a vineyard. After sampling some fine Oregon pinot noir we moved on to the Oregon Caves National Monument where I got to go inside of my first ever cave. It was very cool (not just in the literal sense). Perhaps someday I'll give spelunking a try.

From the Oregon Caves we returned to Crescent City area staying at campgrounds along the beautiful Smith River, perhaps the finest river on the northern California Coast. While in the area we did some hiking and walked through the redwoods. Turning north we went into Oregon to discover deteriorating weather. Throughout the entire trip we hadn't had a single day of rain, but once we reached Oregon the rain came down pretty hard. The positive side of this is that we ended up discovering that Oregon State P arks have yurts, probably a great option for future early summer trips in this area. While in Oregon we explored the Sea Lion Caves and the Oregon Dunes. Chester, especially, enjoyed the running down the dunes at full speed.

In Oregon we also got the opportunity to see my mom, grandma, and uncle who live near the central part of the coast. It was nice to see my grandma and uncle and to have some time to catch up. After spending a few days with family before we headed north to Washington State where my climbing partner from Alaska, Sean Bemis, was getting married. Sean and his bride, Shannon, although married two weeks earlier on the east coast but held a beautiful reception ceremony near the shores of Hood Canal. Several of my good friends from Alaska were there to visit, some bringing newborns in tow. It was a great opportunity to see good friends that I hadn't seen for quite a while.

Photographs: 1) Holly and I aboard the Dixie on Lake Tahoe the weekend of graduation. 2) Holly and Chester stand in front of the Chandelier Tree, one of three drive-through redwoods. 3) Photo from inside the Oregon Caves. 4) The beautiful Smith River was so clear that one can see every rock. 5) Heceta Head lighthouse along the Oregon Coast.

Graduation and wedding reception

The last couple of months have been busy ones with me presenting at two conferences in April and Holly finishing her masters program. Last weekend our family came to visit for our graduation ceremony, which was held on the historic quad at the University of Nevada, just in front of the building where the Geography Department is housed. It has been really nice having family here visiting. This upcoming weekend Holly and I are having our wedding reception ceremony at Rancho San Rafael.

New weblink

Last December I helped my mom start a blog about her artwork. Since retiring from teaching about five years ago she has re-discovered watercolor and has made it into a second career of sorts. I've added a permanent link from my blog to hers. You can view her artwork and she has instructions for contacting her if you would like to order card sets and/or watercolors.

Spring or winter, I can't tell

Lately I've been a bad blogger. I haven't posted once since December. However, just because I haven't been posting doesn't mean that I haven't been doing stuff. This winter I got out ice climbing with Gwen Linde at both Lee Vining Canyon and Horsehoe Falls near June Lake. Horseshoe Falls is a great early season climbing spot, but the climbs aren't too steep. Lee Vining Canyon was lacking something this year; the entire Bard Harrington wall! As a result Chouinard Falls was very crowded, and because Lee Vining seems to be the only reliable waterfall ice in California it get packed with guided groups and clubs. I have nothing against guiding, and I think that clubs have a right to climb, however this year things got to the point of absurdity. One weekend a guided group and a mountaineering club each hung four ropes on Chouinard, which can only support nine climbs squeezed in. Guess where we were? Right in the middle. However, the most unfortunate thing is that every other small party was run off. Apart from the crowds the ice was in great shape, and I'm gradually getting better at leading. Perhaps, next winter a trip to Lamoille Canyon, the Wastach, or even Ouray will be in order.

Christmas this year saw Holly and I travelling to Jackson Hole, Wyoming where we spent the holidays with family. Holly's brother, Paul, proposed to his long-time girlfriend, Lacey on Christmas Day. Needless to say we'll be traveling back this fall to attend their wedding. Jackson Hole ski area rocks! It is probably my favorite large ski resort, because of its size and the variety of the terrain.

After returning to Reno I got a few good ski days in at Northstar-at-Tahoe. At first I was dismayed about the lack of difficult terrain and the crowds. However, later in the season I got up there on a storm day and discovered that when the weather is the stormiest that is when Northstar shines. The ski area, which is entirely below treeline, seems to be pretty resistant to all but the fiercest winds. As a result, when other places shut their lifts Northstars are still running.

This winter was also our first winter with Chester. I ended up taking Chester on a number of snowshoe hikes, which he absolutely loves. I really enjoy the opportunity to get away from the ski area and climbing area crowds.

This winter has also been a busy one for me at work. Next month I've got two academic conferences: the first is the International Assocation fo Landscape Ecologists in Madison, Wisconsin, the second is the Association of American Geographers in Boston. In between I'l be stopping off in DC to see Cara and to check out the cherry blossoms. Happy spring.