Matterhorn Peak: First High Sierra Rock Climb

The Sierra Nevada has some of the finest alpine rock climbs around. Naturally, I've been dying to get out climb long routes, and finally I got my chance. This past weekend Newton Debardeleben and I set out to climb Matterhorn Peak, the high point of the Sawtooth Range located just outside of Bridgeport, California. The Sawtooths are steep jagged spine of mountains that extend along the Sierra crest and are considered by many to be the northernmost of the High Sierra.

We decided to make the trip in two days, which meant that we needed to set up a high camp the first day and then make the climb, hike back to camp, descend to the car, and drive back to Reno the second day. This was all quite doable, although it amounted to a good workout. On Saturday we arrived at US Forest Service Ranger Station in Bridgeport at 7:15 am just in time to snag the last permit for the Horse Creek unit. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and then headed up Horse Creek Trail from Twin Lakes. We arrived with plenty of time at an awesome campsite next to a small lake with beautiful views of the mountain and decided to scout the route. Hiking up 2,000 feet of scree proved to be slower than we expected, however, it gave us the opportunity to re-calibrate our expectations for the next day's demands.

At 4:30 am we woke, packed up quickly, and started the hike to the base of the peak. The route that we had our sights set on was the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak, which is the most prominent route as seen from Bridgeport or Twin Lakes area. At 7:00 am we got on the first pitch which consisted of mostly loose blocks of rock. The route totalled six pitches according to the guidebook, although the last two pitches we split into two to reduce rope drag and there was a third pitch of 3rd class scrambling along a knife-edge ridge. the weather proved to be cold, with a steady wind blowing, and most of the route being in the shade. The few sunny wind free spots felt like a godsend. The climbing proved to be enjoyable with no single move greater than 5.7. In classic alpine style there was some routefinding to be had and all but one pitch featured loose rock. At 1 pm we topped out and were greeted with gorgeous views of the northern part of Yosemite Park as well as extensive views into the Great Basin to the east.

Photos 1) View of the Sawtooth Range from east of Twin Lakes 2) Closeup view of Matterhorn Peak. The north arete is the prominent route in the foreground. 3) View of Matterhorn Peak from camp 4) Newton at the bottom of the third pitch 5) Sunrise on the Sawtooth Range