Matanuska Glacier Trip, 2005, Republished

Mount Marcus Baker Attempt, March 2005 -

During March of 2005 Sarah Masco, Andy Mahoney, Sean Bemis, and I decided to attempt to climb Mount Marcus Baker, the highest point in the Chugach Mountains. We knew that we would need a spell of good weather as the mountain had a reputation for being quite windy. Afterall, it is at the crest of the Chugach and is quite exposed to weather systems coming off of the Gulf of Alaska. Sean snapped the photograph at the top of the page from the window of an Alaska Airlines jet.

We began our trip from Mike Meekin's place just up the road from where Sarah was living in Chickaloon. High winds delayed us for two days, but once out we were greeted by beautiful scenery. Mike is a very skilled pilot, but his Super Cub is tiny. Therefore, we each had to be ferried in individually. I was the last to arrive just before sundown and was greeted by cold temperatures. Luckily, the others had the tents up and we went to work building a sturdy snow wall that turned out to be very much needed. That night the weather set in and we were grounded for three days. The storm deposited a lot of snow and we were forced to go outside about every hour or two to clear off the tents. Finally, on the final day of the storm the weather improved somewhat and we got out to dig a snowcave, which ended up being far more comfortable than two tents.

After one night in the snowcave the sun broke out and presented us with a choice. Should we move camp up the mountain to a an exposed plateau or should we head down glacier and attempt smaller peaks near the Scandinavian Glacier Hut? Given that we were wet and cold we decided to head for the hut.

The hut turned out to be a nice option. Besides giving us a chance to dry out it was stocked with books, magazines, and games, all of which turned out to be useful because nasty windy weather set in the following day. The day after proved to be beautiful, so we decided to make an attempt on Finland Peak. On a previous trip in 1998 I had stayed at this exact hut and climbed Norway Peak and Denmark Peak. I was eager to give Finland a shot. Plus Finland offered one of the nicest ski descents, as well as a summit ridge that featured some alpine ice climbing.

Photos from left to right:

View of Mt. Marcus Baker from the Matanuska Glacier, Finland Peak, and the Scandinavian Glacier Hut.

Photos from left to right:

Sarah climbing the final slopes to the summit of Finland Peak, the summit ridge of Finland Peak, group photo on the summit.

Alaska -

Since 1990 Alaska has been my home, and I feel fortunate to have had the opportunity to grow up and live in such a spectacular place. I moved to Juneau in 1990 from Olympia, Washington when my Dad took on a new job. As a young Juneaite I had abundant opportunities to tramp about in the woods, hike the mountains, explore the glaciers, and enjoy the sound of salt water lapping upon pebbly beach. In 1997 I left Juneau to move to Fairbanks to go to college. There I met great friends and mountaineering became an important part of my life. I began my winter pursuits climbing in the Delta Range (the easter portion of the Alaska Range). Throughout the years I had opportunities to climb mountains in the Alaska Range, Chugach Range, and the Coast Range. I also lived in Glennallen, a small town outside Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, for a year and a half while I worked my first job with the BLM. Throughout the years I've been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to travel throughout much of southeast, southcentral, and interior Alaska, as well as to the North Slope and the Bering and Chukchi Sea coasts.

In my previous entry I posted a few links to friends' webpages. In an effort to streamline things a bit I'm going to add those links to this journal entry in a more direct fashion:

Black Rapids Glacier 2002 - 130 miles southeast of Fairbanks (or 30 miles south of Delta Junction)

http://www.uoregon.edu/~sbemis/pages/blackrapids_1.html

Ruth Gorge Trip #2 - Denali National Park

http://www.uoregon.edu/~sbemis/pages/ruth2003.htm

Ice climbing in Valdez, Alaska

http://www.uoregon.edu/~sbemis/pages/valdez/valdez1.htm

Mount Hayes - 125 miles southeast of Fairbanks (or 25 miles south of Delta Junction)

http://www.uoregon.edu/~sbemis/pages/hayes_1.htm

Kesugi Ridge - Denali State Park

http://www.uoregon.edu/~sbemis/pages/kesugi.html

Mount Marcus Baker / Scandinavian Peaks - about 40 miles east of Anchorage

http://asuaf.org/~ftted/MMBclimb.htm

Enjoy!

-Tom